Aurlandsdalen
Aurlandsdalen is one of those routes that every Norwegian has heard of, but not necessarily a foreigner. I even read an opinion on one of the Norwegian blogs that every inhabitant of the country of fjords should visit the Aurlandsdalen valley at least once in the lifetime. This place is famous for its unearthly views and fantastic hiking experience. What does it actually look like? I decided to check it in person.
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The route is 18 km long and can be covered of the way uphill (starting in Vassbygdi and ending in Østerbo) or downhill (from Østerbo to Vassbygdi). The difference in altitude between the start and end points is about 720m. In summer, buses run between the two locations, so there is no need to go back and forth. You just have to be careful to not miss the last course. Aurlandsdalen is located in western Norway, near the town of Aurlandsvangen (where the famous Stegastein viewpoint and the exit of Norway’s longest tunnel are located) and Flåm (the place known from the Flåmsbana railway). The route runs along the valley bottom or on the northern / eastern slope of the mountain massif, parallel to the Aurlandselvi River flowing through the valley. The whole thing can be completed in about 6-7 hours.
My plan was to come to Vassbygdi on Saturday morning, leave the car in the parking lot, ignore the crowds waiting for the bus to Østerbo, and enter the trail from this side. Yes, I was going to go uphill. I wanted to get to the end of the tour fast enough to catch the bus back to Vassbygdi at 14.45. This would give me some time for another short hike this day.
I started my trip around 09.00. I left the car in the parking lot on Road 50 to Aurlandsvangen. There is an additional parking place closer to the route, it is probably paid. The buses to Østerbo run from the second parking lot. I was surprised how many people were preparing for the trek. There were even more people on the other parking lot. They waited for the bus to start walking on the other side of the route. I passed them quickly and soon after I was on the trail.
At the very beginning, there is something to suspend your sight on. High, steep slopes overwhelm with their vastness. And while in the first kilometers of the route, when the trail leads among the trees, the impressions are not too strong, later, with each new step, we realize how tiny we are in the face of the forces of nature. During these 18 kilometers of walking, you can really experience a lot. We have the abovementioned steep slopes of the mountains, the passage with the bottom of the gorge next to the raging river, there is an idyllic view of the old farm buildings located on a small flat area. There is also a section where the calm river and crystal water invite you to bath. There is a passage over a narrow rock ledge over a several-meter-long cliff. There are sections where the trail climbs steeply and some where you go on flat.
About halfway through the route, I began to encounter hikers coming from the opposite direction. At first, the small group soon turned into a real crowd. Over time, the passing of more people who did not even try to answer the greetings began to irritate. Like most of people, I go to the mountains to calm down and I don’t need the presence of others.
One of the additional attractions of Aurlandsdalen is a place called Vetlahelvete. The word ‘Vetla’ in the local dialect means ‘Little’, while ‘Helvete’ in Norwegian means ‘Hell’. The whole thing must at least evoke curiosity, right? The name refers to a cave formed by a glacier, with smooth, vertical walls resembling giant teeth. Inside, there is a small lake at the bottom, which makes exploring the cave rather inadvisable. Photos on the internet gave me an idea of what to expect and I must admit that the live image of this rock formation is also impressive.
Of course, Vetlahelvete was crowded with tourists that day and it was hard to find a moment for a really good picture without people bustling selfie with their phones.
Moments later I was back on the trail. At some point, an alternative route, called Bjørnstigen, departs from the path. It rises steeply up the mountain slope and runs parallel to the main trail, from where the views of the valley are probably much more spectacular. I intended to continue walking along this path, but gave up after reading the warning posted at the crossroads. They informed about the dangers of stone landslides and uncertain ground, especially during and after heavy rains. It had rained the night before, which made me struggling with mud almost from the very beginning of the tour. I decided that there was too risky, especially when going alone. Besides, I had to catch the first afternoon bus from Østerbo and climbing Bjørnstigen would definitely delay my trek. So I continued walking along the bottom of the valley.
On the second half of the route, I thought that all the attractions and interesting views were already behind me and that nothing else on Aurlandsdalen would surprise me. I was wrong. I have reached the point where the path runs along a narrow ledge cut in the vertical wall. Several meters below the rushing river was flowing with a loud roar. For safety, a rope ran along the back of this path in the rock, which you could catch. In several places I walked under a rocky eaves from which water was dripping.
Just past the point where the Bjørnstigen trail joins the main trail again, you come to the picturesquely situated Nesbø Farm (I don’t know if the popular crime story writer is somehow related to this place). Behind the farm, the path rises again and runs once more over a narrow ledge of rock, this time over the waters of Lake Nesbøvatnet. The last kilometers are a pleasant walk on relatively flat terrain in a rather idyllic area. Soon after I reached Østerbo. I was greeted by the buildings of Østerbo Fjellstove and Aurlansdalen Turisthytte, tourist night shelters, which are hard to find in the place where I started my journey. About ten minutes later the bus arrived. I loaded myself in and a short while later was back in the parking lot at Vassbygdi.
Aurlandsdalen is undoubtedly one of those routes that attract tourists. Not only the Norwegians themselves. I must admit that the views on these 18 kilometers are breathtaking and the impressions from the walk remain in your memory for a long time. These are not panoramas of open spaces from mountain peaks, which I am used to recently, but they can also delight a lot. It is not surprising that the opinion repeated on the Internet that every hiker should visit Aurlandsdalen at least once in the lifetime.
